Courmayeur: A gourmet getaway in the Italian Alps, for apéritifs and après-ski

A quaint Alpine village on the edge of Northern Italy with bones of stone and timber, Courmayeur rises from the white, rocky mountains at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is breathtaking from every angle. A perfect picture, threaded with a medieval undercurrent: solid, stoic architecture that softens into the landscape and emits a low, effortless hum of luxury. The air is so crisp it scrubs your thoughts raw. Daylight feels quieter here, folding carefully over the sloped slate roofs and hand-carved wooden balconies. Time in Courmayeur settles like snow, it seems to move with a soft, slow certainty. I visited the town in late March for the annual Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience, a lavish two day bacchanal organised by Momentum events where appetite and altitude converge under the direction of Michelin star chefs - a sequence of Alpine feasts for those who prefer their après-ski with cooking that revels in its own indulgence. Over the course of the event we attended three meals prepared by Jean-Philippe Blondet, Emily Roux, and their respective teams. Blondet is the executive chef at the three-Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, where modern French cuisine is delivered with polished precision. Roux, who earned her first star earlier this year at the Michelin ceremony in Glasgow, brings a more personal, intuitive touch at Caractère — her warmly minimalist, French-inspired restaurant in Notting Hill. Day 1 The experience opened with an evening meal at Shatush, a cream coloured chalet at the heart of the Aosta Valley that leans gently into the surrounding mountains. The space carries an easy glamour, dimly lit in plush tones of violet and magnolia. Long tables lined the room where diners gathered over crisp white linen cloth, glasses catching the soft light as conversation brewed in anticipation of what was to come. The name Roux carries weight in the culinary world - a legacy built on generations of precision, innovation and exacting standards. Stepping into that tradition with a modern sensibility, Emily applied both technical skill and personal vision to each plate, evident from the very first dish: a canopy of charcoal croustade topped with whisky and soy-smoked salmon, a flicker of trout roe, and a dash of wasabi. Cool and delicate, it released a delicious fragrance that lingered beyond the first bite. Her starter followed - Balfegó bluefin tuna, its deep-red slices arranged with surgical precision over a mandarin ponzu, brightened with yuzu and a flick of chilli. For a moment I was transported to warmer, wilder oceans before returning to the still, cool hush of the Alps. Blondet’s John Dory followed — a quiet, composed plate of roasted fish accompanied by cauliflower, Comté, and a whisper of black lemon. It expanded in flavour and texture with each bite, every element considered and measured. Service moved like clockwork, delivered with a warmth and enthusiasm that lifted the room. All dishes were sharp, punchy and refined - thoughtfully paired with wines that echoed and deepened every note. As the meal drew to a close, tables were cleared and the restaurant transformed into a nightclub. This initial dinner set a tone of elegance and innovation - one that seamlessly carried throughout the weekend. Day 2 The landscape glowed under a soft morning sun as we made our way toward the mountains for skiing. A novice, I took a two hour lesson with a skilled and very patient instructor, learning how to glide across the snow - not quite with grace. Still, I emerged with a basic grasp to build on and a measure of pride at having taken on the challenge. Afterwards, we headed to La Chaumière, a restaurant halfway up the slope where Blondet and Roux worked behind a smoking grill on the terrace preparing for an afternoon barbecue. Lunch captured the true aprés ski spirit as guests arrived energised and in full gear, fresh from winter sporting activities. Stations sprawled across the sunlit chalet, offering cured meats, ribs, smoky port, and baked potatoes topped with glossy pearls of caviar. We indulged in Aperol spritzes and draught beers, clutched between icy fingers while dancing beside a DJ booth that spun classic beats into the crisp mountain air. Peaks stretched out before us in every direction - a jovial unwinding under the most amazing views. After freshening up we returned to La Chaumière for the ‘at home sharing dinner’. Outside, the mountains has darkened into spiky silhouettes against a deep navy sky, pierced by sharp, shining stars - a splendid backdrop for the chalet’s warm wooden dining room glowing amber through its wide set windows. The picture developed as we ascended the slope once more, this time lined on a snowmobile. On arrival we were greeted with glasses of locally produced wine from the Valle d’Aosta - crisp and delicious. We were familiar with the chefs by this stage, and they too had eased fully into the rhythm of Courmayeur. They stepped out of the kitchen and into the commotion, serving up plates and joining the evening’s conviviality. Knives and forks chimed as we tucked into the feast. Service was theatricals each course arriving with a sense of ceremony. After a round of audacious canapés we enjoyed a rich and fragrant black truffle risotto, followed by slow and serious lamb shank - so tender it barely needed a breath to fall apart, and so succulent its juices sweetly swelled on the tongue. The meal closed on a sweet note with a creamy, crumbly cheesecake. It was a solemn, celebratory gesture to conclude the experience. To sum it up… For those who enjoy both turning the slopes and a perfectly executed plate, the Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience offers a rare convergence of both. It’s a celebration of appetite and altitude, where world class chefs bring refinement to the rugged beauty of the Alps. It’s a weekend that lingers deviously, even after the snow has melted. Travel Facts