This captivating article, produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK), offers an exciting glimpse into the eclectic street food scene of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

As I hop onto the back of a Vespa, I embark on an unanticipated culinary adventure that leads me to encounter a figure described as a gangster. Little do I realize just how intriguing this evening will become. The sun has set, and the rain begins to pour, creating a rhythmic drumming on the tarmac. By the time we arrive at a bustling restaurant named Oc Loan, located on a small side street in Ho Chi Minh City, we are completely drenched. Outside the restaurant, water troughs resembling street stalls display an array of seafood delights, featuring snails larger than my fist, plump clams, and glistening river prawns. The scene is presided over by a man in ripped denim shorts and flip-flops, draped in thick gold chains, knuckle dusters, and oversized cuffsdefinitely not the matre d I had anticipated.

Inspired by Michelins inaugural restaurant guide to Ho Chi Minh City, published in 2023, I have set out to explore the city's varied street food offerings on a scooter tour. My guide, Yen Navi, leans in to share a piece of local lore: The owner here was a gangster, he says, nodding towards our bling-laden host as he directs us to some plastic seats. His wife initially ran the restaurant, but his gold chains attracted customers, bolstering Oc Loans popularity.

Dining in Vietnams bustling second city is an exhilarating experience, as I am starting to discover. The restaurant, despite its colorful frontman, has earned serious street cred among local snail and seafood enthusiasts, and is packed with patrons both inside and outside. The floor is littered with empty clam and mussel shells, reminiscent of cocktail sticks at a lively Spanish tapas bar. When the dishes arrive, they are as rustic as they are delicious, featuring ingredients sourced directly from the nearby Mekong Delta. While I shy away from the massive snails, I indulge in an aromatic lemongrass broth with juicy clams, sizzling barbecued prawns, and a platter of soft, smoky scallops garnished with peanuts and spring onions.

The city's food scene is further enriched by microbreweries, trendy cafes, and Michelin-starred restaurants, showcasing the growing diversity of flavors. Ho Chi Minh City, still affectionately known as Saigon by locals, recently opened a transformative Japan-influenced metro line in December last year. However, navigating the city on a scooter remains the quintessential method for exploration. On our two-wheeled journey, we delve deep into the labyrinth of markets, stopping to savor jasmine iced tea and banh xeo rice-flour pancakes filled with minced pork, Thai basil, and a potent herb known as fish leaf, dining shoulder-to-shoulder with locals around rickety tables illuminated by bare bulbs.

However, one culinary delight is notably absent from my gastronomic escapade: the beloved banh mi sandwich, which has gained international acclaim over the past decade. The following day, while exploring the morning food scene with my local guide, Jerry Thanh Nghia, he explains that banh mi is primarily consumed for breakfast. At dawn, we find ourselves on a narrow street at the edge of District 1, searching for Bay Ho, a sandwich shop that gained fame after being featured on Netflixs "Street Food: Asia" series in 2019.

In Saigon, theres practically a meal, drink, or dessert around every corner, Jerry tells me, as we observe a steady stream of motorbikes arriving at the shop. The owner, Ho Quoc Dung, casually dressed in a Louis Vuitton T-shirt and flip-flops, serves eager customers, retrieving stubby baguettes from a large wicker basket. These baguettes, a legacy of Vietnams French colonial past, are slathered with pig-liver pt, fresh coriander, pickled radish, and chopped pork tinted with a cashew-seed rub.

As we await our turn, Dung scoops a spoonful of the coarse pt for me to sample. Our secret recipe for the pt is our greatest treasure, passed down from my grandfather, he reveals. The rich, garlicky spread is superbly seasoned, enhancing the flavors of the entire sandwich. In his late thirties, Dung shares that he rises at 3 AM alongside his wife to scour local markets for the freshest coriander and chilies.

The vibrant markets of Ho Chi Minh City are the backbone of its food culture, and mornings present the ideal opportunity to immerse oneself in their hustle and bustle. Together with Jerry, I head to Vuon Chuoi wet market in District 3, drawn by the smoky scent of grilled meats wafting through the air. As we stroll, spring rolls sizzle in deep woks, while shop owners catch quick naps on day beds with their doors wide open. Later, we venture to District 5 to explore Chinatownone of the largest in the world, dating back to the 1730s. Our visit includes a stop at Thien Hau temple, believed to be established in the 18th century, where we pass beneath a ceiling adorned with beehive-shaped incense burners to offer a prayer before enjoying our final coffee stop at Phung Hung market, just a short walk away.

At a humble stall in a cloud of steam, owner Chung Quoc Hung begins our coffee experience by pouring a generous amount of condensed milk into our small glasses, a time-honored tradition in Vietnam. He then pours our coffee directly from a fine-weave cotton filter drawn from a clay pot in a method known as racket coffee. Chungs family has honed their craft over 70 years at Caf Ba L, and perched on a small plastic stool beside his cart, I sip my coffee, which is both potent and tooth-crackingly sweet due to the condensed milk.

Notably, Vietnam is now the worlds second-largest coffee producera legacy of French colonization that dates back to the introduction of coffee plants. In the early 1900s, they attempted to establish dairy farms here but failed, as the cows couldnt thrive in the tropical heat, Jerry explains, elucidating why condensed milk became the go-to choice for working-class locals who wanted to indulge in the French coffee culture but couldnt afford fresh milk.

Later that day, I join a young barista named Nguyen Tran Anh for a coffee-making workshop in Ho Chi Minh's historic French quarter. We convene in a chic coffee house called Lacph, where stylish locals sip cold brews amid the brick-lined rooms. Emphasizing the innovative spirit of Vietnam, Anh introduces me to egg coffee, a unique drink substituting egg yolks for creaminess and whites for froth. At a workbench set up like a laboratory, we utilize mini electric whisks, weighing scales, and drip filters, as she educates me on the evolving palate of Vietnamese coffee enthusiasts.

Once we finish preparing the coffee, the resulting concoction resembles a baby Guinness cocktail, crowned with a generous golden froth. First, were going to taste the cream alone, like a dessert, Anh instructs. Next, try a spoonful of egg cream mixed with coffee, and finally, stir it all together to enjoy it like a cappuccino. The resulting flavor is rich, silky-smooth, and delicately sweetened with coffee blossom honey from the arabica flower.

That evening, my culinary exploration takes a decadent turn as I seek out Nn Light, a contemporary restaurant whose Vietnamese co-founders have been influenced by their time studying in Japan. After just one year, executive chef Summer Les innovative cuisine garnered accolades from the Michelin Guide, which praised the restaurant for its immersive tasting menus. Their sister establishment in Da Nang was awarded Vietnams only Michelin Green star, highlighting the restaurants commitment to sustainability.

Its incredibly exciting that Michelin has finally acknowledged Vietnam, says Sena Le, Nns chief storyteller, as he guides me through a serene Japanese rock garden into the dimly lit dining area. Vietnamese cuisine possesses something truly unique. We aim to showcase our culinary heritage to the world, and I believe were only scratching the surface.

As the nine-course meal unfolds, a stunning array of ingredients sourced from across the nation is presented for our inspectiongnarled Buddhas hand fruit, dried osmanthus flower, and young glutinous rice flakes among them. The moment of truth arrives with the melo melothe same giant snail I had initially avoided during my Vespa tour. Served as sashimi, its raw tiger-striped flesh is surprisingly meaty with a subtle sweetness reminiscent of prawns. Just two days prior, I hesitated to try this local delicacy. However, my deepened appreciation for Ho Chi Minhs vibrant food culture enables me to embrace this final culinary leap with enthusiasm.

For those interested in embarking on a similar food adventure, this story was created with the support of InsideAsia and Vietnam Airlines. They offer a captivating 13-night Food-lovers Vietnam tour, including three nights in Ho Chi Minh City, a Vespa street-food tour, accommodation, transport, select meals, and guiding, along with flights from London to Hanoi starting at 3,812 per person.