As the sun rises over Tokyo, a small wet towel, known as oshibori, is rolled up and placed on the tray in front of us. Janice, our guide, explains that this traditional cloth is meant for wiping our hands before meals, rather than our faces or necks. After using it, we should fold it neatly, respecting the customs of Japanese dining.

Post-breakfast, we venture into a depachika, a term that has quickly become part of my growing Japanese vocabulary. These elaborate food halls, typically located in the basements of department stores, showcase an enticing array of culinary delights. We meander through vibrant displays featuring bright red tomatoes, impressively long asparagus, premium wagyu beef, and artistically arranged bento boxes. The sight of enormous strawberries, carefully packaged, tempts me to reach for my wallet; however, the price of $10 for a single strawberry gives me pause. Interestingly, the sampuru, or wax food replicas, serve as mere illustrations of whats available and are not for sale.

At lunchtime, we gather to watch our chef expertly coat prawns with a light batter before deep frying them to perfection. The moment I sink my teeth into the delicate, crispy coating, I realize its the freshest tempura Ive ever experienced. The meal continues with a variety of offerings, including carrots, squid, eel, and lotus roots.

Our guided food tour is more than just a meal; its an immersive experience that takes us through the culinary heart of Tokyo, from beloved street foods to upscale dining. Each afternoon grants us the freedom to explore, and while some in our group return to the Isetan department store for additional shopping, I choose to wander through the serene Aoyama Cemetery. Here, amidst gravestones, I witness a man practicing his golf swing and a woman tossing a ball for her dogs. In a city with a staggering population of around 37 million, open space is indeed a rare treasure.

The structure of our days is pleasantly repetitive: breakfast, lunch, a free afternoon, and dinner. We often find ourselves as the only Westerners in the carefully selected eateries, a testament to the authenticity of our dining experiences.

The Tokyo metro system proves to be the most efficient way to navigate the city. With a little guidance from Sue and Janice, we soon acclimate to the bustling transit system. The upbeat jingles that play as trains arrive are not just for ambiance; Minoru Mukaiya, a talented Japanese composer, has crafted over 100 unique tunes, each corresponding to a different station. These lively melodies signal to sleepy commuters that its time to disembark.

One evening, we stroll to a local standing bar that specializes in yakiton, a delicious dish featuring skewered pork grilled over hot coals. Standing around a small, round table, we enjoy pre-dinner drinks while sampling various meats, including rich pork belly and, surprisingly, pork voice box cartilage. The latter is unexpectedly flavorful, though it isnt until after weve swallowed it that Sue reveals weve just consumed pork rectuman eye-opening experience that adds to our culinary adventure.

During another dinner at an izakaya, a traditional Japanese pub, we indulge in a selection of sashimi, beginning with lighter fish and gradually progressing to the rich, deep red tuna. Each piece of fresh raw fish melts in my mouth, and later, I crunch through crispy deep-fried fish bones, humorously nicknamed fish hardware, which pairs delightfully with a cold beer.

In every restaurant we visit, we emulate local customs: bags and jackets are placed in designated baskets or on hooks, and chopsticks rest on holders or are folded from the paper sleeves of disposable chopsticks, as its considered rude to leave chopsticks standing upright in a bowl.

On one particular night, Janice imparts wisdom about eating nigiri: its perfectly acceptable to use your fingers. After the chef slices fresh fish, he drapes it over small, molded oblongs of rice. We learn the technique of savoring the fish by lightly dipping it in soy sauce and placing the whole piece in our mouths fish-side down.

We also discover the cultural norm of slurping noodles, which is not only acceptable but encouraged in Japan. As I enthusiastically slurp my udon noodles, the wholesome soup splatters onto my shirta small price to pay for such enjoyment. Dressed in white, I quickly realize my fashion choice may have been a bit misguided.

Remember to eat with your eyes before tucking in, advises Sue when a beautiful tray of 16 colorful, bite-sized portions of seasonal delicacies lands in front of me. Japanese cuisine is a feast for the senses, with visually stunning presentations, delightful aromas, and the satisfying crunch of tempura or fresh radish. Each dish is meticulously prepared, showcasing varying textures and tastes.

In a contrast to the lively dining experiences, we participate in a traditional tea ceremony. The calm, practiced movements of our hosts captivate me as two women dressed in kimono prepare our tea on a tatami floor. Each step is deliberate: one pours boiling water over matcha green tea powder, while the other bows and presents me a bowl of the finished tea.

After this serene experience, the atmosphere shifts dramatically as we navigate the bustling streets of Tsukiji market. We dodge umbrellas while weaving through stalls that overflow with shellfish and both fresh and dried seafood. The vibrant activity is electrifying, as we sample pickles, crackers, and taiyaki, a fish-shaped sweet treat. In Kappabashi Street, known as Kitchen Street, we are given the freedom to hunt for the perfect knife, dish, or chopsticks to take home, ensuring we can reproduce our Japanese culinary adventures.

One morning at the Tokyo Cooking Studio, I roll up my sleeves to help prepare gyoza, the traditional Japanese dumpling. I finely chop leeks and coriander, mixing them into ground pork for the filling. Despite my initial struggles to fold and pleat the dough around the meat, I eventually succeed in arranging the dumplings in a frying pan. When theyre cooked, I proudly invert the pan onto a plate, revealing a perfectly spiraled stack of golden gyoza.

With free afternoons at my disposal, I delve into the back streets of Tokyo, engaging with locals and uncovering hidden gems. In Roppongi Hills, I discover the iconic Maman Spider Sculpture by artist Louise Bourgeois, while the observation deck on the 52nd floor of the Mori Tower offers breathtaking panoramic views of the sprawling city below.

At Yoyogi Park, a small, relaxed group enjoys picnics on blue tarpaulins, though their numbers will soon swell with the arrival of cherry blossom season. A man, whose tattooed head and neck catch my eye, shares that he owns two long-necked turtles as pets, adding a quirky twist to my exploration. At the nearby Nori Shrine, I adhere to the traditional rituals: washing my hands, tossing a coin into the offering box, ringing the bell, and bowingtwicebefore making my wish.

Throughout this remarkable tour, I have not only savored a wide array of Japanese dishes, from street food to haute cuisine, but I have also navigated the metro, explored local streets, and immersed myself in Japanese culture.

DETAILS

For more information about the culinary tours in Tokyo, please visit

Aaliyah Carter